FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

Yes. It ensures your engine is lubricated with clean oil which ensures optimal engine performance. See your vehicle owner's manual for the recommended oil change interval, or follow the oil life monitoring system, if equipped. 

Yes. Having your oil and oil filter changed, at least as often as recommended by the manufacturer, is important. 

Yes. It is important to use the recommended grade of oil for your vehicle for the best protection and optimal fuel consumption. 

Yes. Drain the oil out of the oil filter and bring it to a recycling center that accepts filters. 

No. Some vehicles can still drive for kilometers with fuel system damage. But there are warning signs to look for, such as, your vehicle struggles or sputters to start, doesn’t start at all, lacks power, or stalls. 

No. It varies by vehicle make and model, but if all fuel filter replacement steps are executed properly and safely it should only take you about 1 hour to replace the fuel filter. Your vehicle’s owner’s manual may list the fuel filter replacement procedure for your specific vehicle. Also, some fuel filters use Quick Connects and may require a special tool to replace them. 

Yes. This may result in lowered fuel economy. Refer to your vehicle’s owner’s manual for exact fuel filter replacement intervals for your specific vehicle. 

No. Your vehicle's owner's manual will state specific filter change intervals. You will need to replace the cabin air filter more often if you frequently drive on dirt roads or live in a dusty area.

No. A cabin air filter usually only takes a few minutes to replace and is simple to do on your own.

No. Your vehicle's owner's manual will state specific filter change intervals. You will need to replace the air filter more often if you frequently drive on dirt roads or live in a dusty area.

No. An air filter usually only takes a few minutes to replace and is simple to do on your own.

Yes. Clean engine air filters contribute to better fuel economy and reduced vehicle operating costs.

No. Coolant color can no longer be used to determine the correct product to add to your system because coolant suppliers no longer have common product color standards. Instead, determine what is the correct type or specification of the product you require and purchase the product with this correct specification.

Yes. Your owner’s manual or service guide will provide more information regarding vehicle-specific maintenance intervals. 

Yes. See your owner’s manual or service guide for information regarding your vehicle’s fluid requirements.

Yes. Your owner’s manual or service guide will provide more information regarding vehicle-specific maintenance intervals.

No. Each vehicle is manufactured for use with a specific coolant formula. If your vehicle was not designed for use with traditional coolant/antifreeze, or coolant not recommended by your vehicle’s manufacturer, it can potentially harm your cooling system.

No, coolant not only cools the engine, but very  
importantly ensure superior protection against corrosion in engines, water  
pumps and radiators, including aluminum, iron, copper and solder alloys. 

Heat transfer in the cooling system can be improved by choosing a product that is silicate and phosphate free (ACDelco Heavy Duty Corrosion Protector (XLI)) that does not contribute to deposit build up, as can be seen with phosphate and silicate containing coolants, which can help maintain heat transfer efficiency. 

Select a good coolant approved by your vehicle   manufacturer that protects the cooling system components against erosion,  corrosion and cavitation. This cause wear that will reduce the active service  life of the engine and cooling system components. 

No, it is not necessary to clean the engine when switching between conventional and synthetic motor oils. 

No, it is not true that new engines need a break-in period when using conventional motor oil. New engines can be operated with either conventional or synthetic motor oils while still properly lubricating the engine components.

No, you do not need a special oil filter for synthetic motor oil. The type of oil filter used does not depend on the type of oil, but rather on the specifications of the vehicle. Always use a filter that meets the specifications outlined in the vehicle owner’s manual.

Yes, if your car is equipped with it, the oil life monitoring system will inform you when the engine oil needs to be changed, or at least once every year. If your car is not equipped with an oil life monitoring system, change the oil according to the guidelines in the vehicle owner’s manual. Regularly check the engine oil level using the dipstick to determine its level. For more information about the oil life and the appropriate oil level for your vehicle, please refer to the owner’s manual. 

No, the oil life monitoring system is not affected by the type of oil used; it is only influenced by the duration and type of driving. However, synthetic oils improve engine protection by enhancing lubrication. 

No, it is not necessary to flush your engine when switching between conventional and synthetic motor oils.

Yes, your vehicle's owner's manual will contain information relating to your engine's oil specification and capacity. 

Yes. If equipped, your vehicle’s oil-life monitoring system will inform you when your motor oil needs to be changed, or, as a minimum, once every year. If your vehicle does not have an oil life monitoring system, change the oil per owner's manual guidelines. Periodically check your vehicle’s motor oil dipstick for your oil levels. Check your vehicle's owner's manual for more information regarding vehicle-specific oil life and appropriate oil levels. 

No. Transmission fluid is designed to last much longer than most engine oils. Always refer to your vehicle owner’s manual to identify how often and when your transmission fluid should be changed. Severe usage and regular usage descriptions are provided. 

Yes. Most differentials and transfer cases are designed for use with a specific oil. Consult the owner's manual for the correct fluid to use. 

No. GL-4 and GL-5 gear oils may not be interchangeable due to the differing viscosity and limited slip properties. For best results, use the oil recommended in the owner’s manual. 

Yes. Most vehicles, both heavy duty and passenger car, now require a specific type of oil for each vehicle type and model. For best results, use the oil recommended in the owner’s manual. 

No, ACDelco recommends that only trained professionals change brake fluid. Correctly flushing, filling and bleeding the system is critical to braking performance.

Yes, add new fluid whenever the fluid reservoir shows fluid is needed. Additionally, change your brake fluid if the reservoir fluid is dark, murky or has significant contamination.

No, DOT 3 can be added to a DOT 4 system but only if it is absolutely necessary, for example the fluid level is critically low. After getting to a safe area it will be necessary to flush out the system and add the correct amount of new DOT 4 fluid.

No, adding fluid is a normal practice as the brakes wear. However, when changing the brake fluid the system must always be flushed first, this is the only way the system can be cleaned of contaminants. After refilling with clean fluid the system must be properly bled, otherwise the fluid level will be too low and the system may not work as needed.

Yes, DOT 4 has a higher boiling point than DOT 3 and can be used instead of DOT 3.

Yes, the color of the new brake fluid is not critical as long as the brake fluid specification matches what is recommended for your vehicle. Only the brake fluid specification is critical.

No, DOT 5 cannot be mixed with DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid.

No, while the fluid level can go down due to leaks, most often the fluid level will go down as the brake pads and rotors/drums wear and the calipers must push farther to make the system work.

Yes, this interval depends on what type of spark plug your vehicle requires. Refer to your owner’s manual or contact your vehicle’s manufacturer for more information.

Yes, if it is the scheduled time for spark plug replacement. It is okay to replace one spark plug if it is fouled or damaged prior to scheduled maintenance, provided the source of the damage is found and corrected.

Yes. Diesel engines require glow plugs because diesel engines operate differently than gas engines. ACDelco Professional Glow Plugs are specially designed to give diesel engines the heat they need for their cold starts. Refer to your owner’s manual or contact your vehicle’s manufacturer for more information.

Yes. When ACDelco spark plugs are manufactured, they are pre-gapped to the correct gap specification.

Not always, but you should inspect your spark plug wires for wear when replacing your spark plugs. Refer to your vehicle owner’s manual or contact the manufacturer for more information.

Yes, pre-ignition can cause serious damage to your engine. Pre-ignition is the ignition of fuel before the actual spark occurs, which causes a rapid temperature rise in the combustion chamber that can damage engine components and melt spark plug electrodes. Causes of pre-ignition include but are not limited to a buildup of deposits that can become incandescent in the combustion chamber, improper installation torque being applied to spark plugs, and having spark plugs with a heat range that is too hot for the engine’s operating condition.

No, cleaning your old spark plugs is not recommended. Dirty, fouled spark plugs may also have broken or chipped insulator tips, worn electrodes, or worn or missing side wires. These conditions severely affect spark plug performance. Replace your dirty, fouled spark plugs with new ACDelco spark plugs.

Yes. Shocks and struts perform a similar function but they vary greatly in their design. Struts are an integral part of a vehicle’s suspension system, providing structural support for the vehicle and, as such, are a safety subsystem. Shocks work separately from any structural function, absorbing and damping bumps from the road. 

Yes. All shocks and struts use hydraulic fluid (oil) to control damping. A gas charged shock or strut uses high-pressure nitrogen gas to reduce oil foaming during high-speed damping, and therefore maintains performance. 

Yes. It is possible to do a quick check at home for wear on your vehicle’s shocks or struts. You can look for any physical damage to the shock or strut housing or any leaking – this is especially common on rear units that tend to have stones kicked up by the front wheels. You can also perform a bounce test by taking each corner of the vehicle and pushing down hard. The corner should drop, rise and settle again. If the body continues to move up and down, there’s a good chance your shocks need to be replaced.  
Though these home tests can indicate worn shocks or struts, it is also recommended that you take your vehicle to a qualified service technician and let them do a thorough inspection every 12 months or 19,000 kilometers. 

Yes. If you are replacing your vehicle’s struts, however, it is not necessary to get your vehicle aligned when replacing your vehicle’s shocks unless there was or is a previous issue. 

Yes. It is important to choose the correct shock or strut for your vehicle model and year, as well as for the location in the vehicle.

Yes. This may be indicative of an alignment issue or a failed tensioner.

Yes. You may lose your power steering or stall out. Your car is not drivable when your drive belt fails.

Yes. The leading causes of belt failure are improper tension and misaligned pulleys. Both these conditions cause excessive heat which leads to belt failure. Have your belts checked every 30,000 km for belt wear, proper tension, and pulley alignment.

No. When the belt backing has been torn or cracked, the belt should be replaced.

No. Use the belt in the way it’s listed in the ACDelco belts catalog.

No. Remember the leading cause of belt failure is improper tension and misaligned pulleys. Improper tension will cause the belt to slip.

Yes. If the drive belt is too tight, damage to other drive components may occur.

Yes. Ignoring a ‘Service Engine Soon’ light can cause damage to your engine’s mechanical components and/or emission system. A ‘Service Engine Soon’ light should be checked as soon as possible by a qualified GM certified service technician.

No. Remember the leading cause of belt failure is improper tension and misaligned pulleys. Improper tension will cause the belt to slip and you may notice a loss of performance from the air conditioning system as well as increased heat under the hood. High heat can lead to premature accessory failure.  

Yes. Refrigerant has changed multiple times over the years, be sure to have the approved refrigerant for your system.

No. Using cans of refrigerant may add a boost to the A/C system temporarily. To properly charge your vehicle’s A/C system, have it serviced by a certified technician.

No, R134a refrigerants are only compatible with systems designed to take this product. Systems designed to take other refrigerants do not have the correct type of seals and gaskets required for R134a systems.

Yes, the AC refrigerant in your vehicle’s air conditioning unit is serviceable.

No, refrigerant types with different product codes are not interchangeable.

No, AC refrigerant does not have a shelf life and will not expire if it is stored in a sealed container.

With a boiling point of -26°C, R134a is a pressurized liquid and so needs to be handle and stored in an appropriate manner to avoid over-pressure scenarios. R134a is regarded as practically non-toxic but as with all gasses, the risk of oxygen dilution or exclusion needs to be addressed in order to avoid potential asphyxiation. Contact of cold vapour or liquid with skin can result in freeze-burn. These dangers are common to all fluorocarbon refrigerants.

If stored below the maximum storage temperatures recommended for the containers and out of direct contact with heat or strong sunlight, there should be no issue. Clearly any damage to the storage cylinder or valve will have a detrimental effect on the temperature rating of the system.

The dealer should place the damaged cylinder into safe storage and contact the supplier for advice on replacement and for dealing with cylinder return or disposal.

On the basis that the full residual charge is removed from the vehicle and fresh R134a is used to recharge the vehicle after any service work, each cylinder can approximately charge 10 small vehicles and 5 SUV vehicles.

The SAE J-2776, AHRI Standard 700, ISO 9001, ISO 14001, OHSAS 18001 are international standards that prove the quality, reliability and purity of the product and to the quality, safety and environmental impact of the manufacturing processes used to make the product.

R134a is the generic name for the chemical 1,1,1,2-tetrafluoroethane and R134a is available from a number of manufacturers including Chinese manufacturers. R134a is a specific branded product that benefits from the quality assurance and manufacturing and supply history that comes from the largest integrated manufacturer of R134a with a successful supply history to major automotive manufacturers and aftermarket for over 25-years. Choosing product from a reputable and well-established provider avoids the risk of costly and potentially dangerous incidents and reduced system lifetime that have been associated with contaminated or counterfeit R134a.

The cylinder should be disposed according to local regulations taking recycling requirements into account. Good practice would require removing any residual R134a from the used can into a refrigerant recovery machine prior to disposal.

It is important to have the right battery for your vehicle. Refer to OEM specifications in your Owner's manual or an OEM driven supplier such as ACDelco.

All batteries need to be maintained. Parasitic drains in a vehicle can deplete a battery in 2-4 weeks. To be safe, vehicles should be started once a week or once every other week and idled for 5 minutes to ensure that the battery retains a reasonable state of charge.

In the case of GM vehicles, AGM batteries are required for start-stop vehicles. Use of a flooded battery will result in the life only being about 4-6 months. Most other vehicle manufacturers use AGM for these vehicles as well.

a. Conventional battery is normally a dry charged battery where the battery is already charged but not yet filled with acid/electrolyte.
b. Acid/electrolyte need to be added before a battery is used.
c. Conventional battery is available with vent plugs (ventilation plugs) which can be opened for adding distilled water/demineralized water.
d. Maintenance free battery is a battery which is already filled with acid from the factory and ready to use.

Acid/electrolyte Density/SpGr required is 1.280 @20ᵒ Celsius.

Acid/Electrolyte is sulfuric acid (H2SO4).

It is suggested to wait 15 minutes after the battery is filled with acid before use. This is for plates to absorb acid (soaking time).

For a dry charged, conventional battery, charging is not required after acid filling because battery plates are already charged from the factory.

It is highly recommended to use only distilled/demineralized water or battery water that is normally sold in the market. Because normal tap water/drinking water contains minerals that can damage battery plates. Acid/electrolyte must be free from any minerals or metal content.

As soon as the acid level reaches lower level which is printed on the battery.

a. Conventional dry charged battery is equipped with aluminum foil which is attached in every ventilation hole.
b. The purpose of the aluminum foil is to keep the battery plates from interacting with the air outside, as air or oxygen can damage battery plates.
c. If the aluminum foil is still firmly attached, battery can be kept for over then a year.

No. However, it is a good idea to inspect them for wear-out, cracking, leaking, etc.

No. However, it is a good idea to inspect your brake pads at each tire rotation.  

Yes. Running the wiper blades on a dry windshield could damage the blade or scratch the windshield.

Yes. A blade's natural rubber deteriorates after about six months.

Yes. Windshield wiper blades withstand most types of weather. They are most affected by exposure to sunlight and ozone. There is little that can be done to reduce ozone exposure, but limiting the amount of time your blades are exposed to direct sunlight will help prolong the life of the wiper blade. 

No. Windshield wiper blades will not melt in the sun, but overexposure to the sun can harden the rubber, causing the blade to lose its ability to conform to the shape of the windshield which can degrade performance.

Yes. It's recommended that windshield wiper blades be cleaned periodically to remove road grime, bugs, and other debris. If your windshield wiper blades smear water, try cleaning the windshield and then your wiper blades with hot soapy water or another non-abrasive liquid.

No. Only the rubber element of the windshield wiper blade should come in contact with your windshield. It’s important to change windshield wiper blades immediately when the wiper element becomes torn so the wiper blade's frame does not come in contact with your windshield.